Fun Facts: Topaz

When you think of topaz, chances are that you picture the deep blue of December's birthstone or the rich yellow of November.  However, topaz comes in all shades of the rainbow.  Here are some other things you may not know about topaz!

- Topaz is a very hard gemstone, with a Mohs hardness of 8. (Mohs Scale - Wikipedia)

- The topaz has been known for at least 2000 years and is one of the gemstones which form the foundations of the twelve gates to the Holy City of the New Jerusalem.

- The Romans dedicated the topaz to Jupiter.

- Topaz comes in yellow, yellow-brown, brown, green, blue, red, pink, and white, which is actually colorless.

- The ancient Egyptians believed that topaz was colored by glow of the sun god (Ra), which gave it the power to protect the faithful against harm.

- The ancient Greeks believed that topaz could make a wearer invisible.

- Rare pastel pink topaz is found in Pakistan and Russia. When it was first discovered in Russia, ownership was restricted to the czar, his family, and those to whom he gifted it. For this reason, fine colored topaz is known as "imperial topaz."

International Colored Gemstone Association 

American Gem Trade Association

Old Mine, Old Miner or Mine Cut. It is known by several different names, but what is so special about it?  Let's take a closer look at this unique diamond cut. 

Where did it get its name?  The name Old Mine comes from the fact that many of these diamonds came from the old diamond mines throughout India.  Old Mine diamonds were the precursor to today's modern brilliant or brilliant round cuts.  The diamonds were cut mostly by hand before the advent of the modern saws and tools used today. Many of the old mine cut diamonds were shaped or "blocked" by hand, so they are not always truly round in shape and often have an elegant cushion shape.

The diamonds were cut to maximize the brilliance and sparkle of the diamond at a time when indoor lighting was much lower in wattage and sophistication.  Today, the Old Mine cut is brilliant in minimal light with the advanced lighting available today and you have a diamond that exhibits tremendous brilliance and fire.  These diamonds have more of a kaleidoscope effect, as opposed to the balanced and symmetrical brilliance of the modern cut.  The Old Mine cut was the first to have the 58 facets that are present in the modern cut round diamonds, and is characterized by a smaller table and steeper crown.  The most noticeable characteristic is the open culet, or flat bottom, that gives the appearance of an opening in the middle of the diamond when viewed through the table. 

A side view of an Old Mine cut shows the steep crown and blunted culet.

A top view shows the cushion shape that is more common, as opposed to the perfectly round shape found in a modern or brilliant round cut.                                

 

When you consider that the Old Mine diamonds have not been cut since the early 20th century, it is really cool to own a piece of history that is only available from estate collections and specialized jewelers. 

Brandywine river rings

The custom design for these very cool wedding bands was created in CAD (computer assisted design) and features three-dimensional topography that was integrated directly into the original, rather than added later.   

One of the things that really brought this couple close was their shared interest in extensive travel. The concepts of travel and geography, therefore, made for a natural starting point for the design of their rings. As it turned out, the wife-to-be grew up along the Brandywine River and the wedding would be held at another location along the same river which made it an appropriate icon to use.  The husband had some tsavorites that had been in his family that he wanted to use in the rings, so they were re-cut for size and set into the rings at specific places on the map. Each ring had a stone set where the wedding was held and an additional stone was set in the bride’s ring at the location of where she grew up.

Bride's ring is on the left; groom's ring is on the right

This is just another way to truly personalize your rings and make them your own.   Using this design technology, we can incorporate something incredibly unique and personal, like a thumbprint or geography coordinates, right into the design itself as opposed to engraving it into the finished piece.  

Rings aren't the only jewelry that can be customized using this technique.  Pendants are a great option as well, especially for a Mother's Day gift or a birthday.  What about a charm bracelet or key fob?  The possibilities are endless.  

*Concept by Donovan Preddy Designs

Ask Nikki: What's the difference between white gold and platinum?

One of the questions that we're asked most frequently is "What's the difference between white gold and platinum?"  This is an excellent question, and one that we enjoy answering.  First, neither is "better" than the other.  It really is a matter of personal preference. 

Gold nuggets

Gold is naturally yellow.  Different elements are combined with gold to create alloys such as white gold, rose gold, and green gold.  The percentage of gold vs. alloy determines what karat the gold is.  For example, 14k gold is 58% gold and 18k gold is 75% gold, thus the difference in price.  White gold is created by adding nickel and copper, and zinc.  White gold is usually finished off with rhodium, which is a liquid suspension of platinum, for a bright white finish and luster.  White gold and platinum are similar in appearance when they are first polished and finished.  White gold is tougher and platinum is harder.  This means that white gold is tougher to scratch and platinum is a little harder.  Over time white gold can react to body chemistry and cleaners which may cause it to have a slight yellow tint.  Because karat gold is less dense than platinum and because you are using a percentage of gold, depending on the karat, a comparable piece of jewelry will be less expensive in gold vs. platinum.  Restoring your gold jewelery  to like-new condition is easy and only requires that the items be polished and rhodiumed.  One concern is that some people may have an allergy to nickel. 

Platinum nuggets and bar

Platinum is more rare and much more dense than gold. If you compare two rings, one in 14k gold and one in platinum, the platinum ring will weight approximately 85% more.  Many people equate this heavier feel with added value much in the same way as a solid and heavy door on a luxury car.   Platinum is a pure metal, which means that is isn't an alloy and it will always retain its pure white color.  Platinum, however, is not as tough as gold and scuffs easily, which forms a matte patina finish.  Some people prefer this patina, which is comparable to a comfortably worn leather jacket.  Platinum is easily polished to restore its bright finish and does not need rhodium. 

Now that you have the facts, the choice is yours and we are always happy to answer your questions!

Spotlight on: Hand Engraving

When we custom design a ring, we do more than just think about whether to use gold or platinum, how many stones to use, and how they should be set.  It's the little details that really finish off a piece of jewelry and make it unique.  Both hand engraving and hand milgraining add a certain look to a ring or pendant, and just ups the "wow" factor.  Here are a few examples:

Hand engraving and milgrain on custom engagement ring

Hand engraving on "stick and bezel" three diamond pendant

Hand engraving on face of custom ring

Ask us about adding hand engraving to a piece that you already own or to one of our custom designs.  We can make your ring or pendant unique, and uniquely yours.

Makeover Monday!

One of my favorite things about jewelry is the sentiment behind it.  This is especially true when it comes to engagement and wedding rings.  What could be more meaningful than a tangible symbol of a promise that two people make to each other?

However, it's also possible that the engagement ring you received 25 years ago, while still very special to you because of what it represents, just isn't your style at this point in your life.  Maybe you don't like yellow gold anymore, or channel set diamonds.  It could be that you want a fresher look, or something more modern or retro.  Perhaps it's as simple as the fact that you haven't been wearing your wedding band because it doesn't fit anymore and you want to overhaul it completely so that you can wear it again every day. We specialize in taking elements from your original rings and using them in the redesign process so that you can keep the original symbol of your commitment to each other.

Here are some redesign tips:

Look around for inspiration (magazines, fashion blogs, ads).
Be open to suggestions.
Do you prefer vintage styles, or more contemporary?  How will you wear your new ring - every day, to work, for special occasions?  Consider if you plan on wearing your ring to work out, or garden - any activity that might put extra "wear and tear" on it.

Have fun with the process!

Engagement ring - Before

Wedding band - Before

Wedding band and engagement ring - After

Family Circle

Gene's wife wanted something different than an average "mother's ring," which contains the birthstones of either all of her children or all of her family members.  She definitely didn't like the ones she had seen in the mall, like these:

  

She hinted that she wanted a necklace.  However, since Gene wanted to surprise her, he couldn't ask for her help in designing something, and didn't know where to start.  That's where Robert came in. 

Working from an example that Gene saw in a magazine ad, Robert came up with the idea of doing a circular pendant that could "spin" on the bail (the part of the pendant that connects to the chain) and added bezel set birthstones for each of the family members:

Gene liked it, but felt like it needed something more.  So, in the next set of renderings, Rob added each person's name, set in a relief pattern:

To add a little more sparkle and provide a contrast with the birthstones, pave set diamonds were added to the bail:

Finally, the finished product on a pretty white gold wheat chain!

 

Karen was thrilled with the pendant, and impressed that Gene pulled off such a great gift. Happy Birthday, Karen!

What do I do with this?

In our last post, we talked about the unique experience of owning estate jewelry and creating your own heirlooms.  We also discussed how it can take on special meaning when, for example, you use a family member's diamonds in your custom wedding band.  On the other hand, what can you do with that brooch from Great-Aunt Margaret that you're hiding in your jewelry box?  You know, the one that you could never see yourself wearing, but no one else wants either.

It's pretty, but admit it, it's just not your style.

This is where we come in.  There is someone out there who has been looking for a brooch just like Great-Aunt Margaret's.  We can evaluate it, restore it if necessary, and help find it a new home.  

We can also help you with larger estates.  When a loved one passes, family members often have the task of sorting through decades worth of belongings.  If you are unsure of what to do with jewelry, a collection of watches, a silver service, or coins, give us a call and we can help you decide what to do next.  We have a special estate service that is available in our store, our private office or at your home or office.  We will evaluate all of your items and provide you with several options, including purchasing, redesign, evaluating and appraising, restoring or any combination of the above.  Contact us for details and more information.

Everything old is new again

One of the most interesting aspects of working in the jewelry trade is finding great estate jewelry.  According to GIA, "...estate jewelry is a term used loosely to mean any previously owned jewelry. But the most sought after estate jewelry typically features fine workmanship and high quality stones, as well as one-of-a-kind pieces."  (Note: This doesn't mean antique.  To be a true antique, whether it's a ring, a chair, a clock, or a rug, an item has to be over 100 years old.)

My personal favorites are the estate engagement rings.  The history and style of an estate ring makes something that is already incredibly special even more unique.  In a way, you are connecting the past to the present while looking towards the future.  

Original estate ring in 18k white gold with a .25 carat center Old Mine diamond. 
The ring is engraved "ML to DK 12-25-26"

If you have something that belonged to a family member that isn't really your style but has sentimental meaning, we can use it to design a custom piece for you.  For instance, if you have a ring that was handed down from your grandmother but the setting just doesn't fit with your personality, we can take the diamonds and create a wedding band that will compliment your engagement ring.  You will retain the heirloom essence of your grandmother's ring, while making it your own and creating something that you, in turn, can pass along.

Sara received a two diamond ring from her late grandmother.  We were able to take the diamonds from Sara's grandmother's ring and use them as the end, or "anchor," stones in Sara's custom wedding band.  One day Sara will be able to pass her ring on as an heirloom as well.

Lock it up!

The warm weather is here and with it comes the end of the school year, which makes this a perfect time to plan a trip!  Whether it's a visit to a theme park, a camping trip, a stay at the shore, or a reunion with relatives, vacations take a lot of planning and organization.  Besides packing, you have to be smart - stopping delivery on the newspaper, asking the post office to hold your mail, and making sure that you have a trusted neighbor or friend keeping an eye on your home.  At Harry Merrill & Son Jewelers, we can help with your peace of mind by offering our concierge service for your jewelry while you are away.

Store your jewelry here at Harry Merrill & Son for safekeeping.  We will inspect, steam clean, and store it in our safe, all at no charge.  You can also opt to have it professionally polished and maintained to keep it as good as new and help prevent lost gem stones and breakage.  This is also an excellent time for any sizings or repairs that you've been putting off.  Contact us for details and pricing.  Bon voyage!

Say "thank you" this Mother's Day!

Every May, we devote a Sunday to celebrating our mothers - flowers, brunch, cards, and the ever-important gift of jewelry.  One of the reasons that jewelry is such a wonderful Mother's Day present (for moms, mothers-in-law,aunts, grandmothers, or any special women in our lives) is because it can be treasured for years to come and passed on from one generation to another.  Whether you choose a bracelet, a necklace, a pin, or a ring, giving jewelry shows that you care enough to put the time, effort, and consideration into finding something special that reflects Mom's personality and taste.  Here are a few of the pieces that we love for Mother's Day:

This stainless steel cable bracelet features a "stirrup" pave set with black diamonds and two rondels on either side of the clasp pave set with white diamonds.  The "hook" is also pave set with diamonds, and the entire bracelet has a white gold finish.  The bracelet is also available in yellow gold, rose gold, and black rhodium finishes.  It's a stylish look at a great price.

We custom make these reversible flower earrings in a variety of colors (shown here in sky blue topaz and iolite).  This is our own design and can be done using mom's favorite colors, kids' birthstones, or any other combination that you like.  To make the earrings even more versatile, create two that match and one reversed, in a set of three.  Then you can decide how to wear them, depending on your outfit or mood.  We make the earrings in sterling silver or 14k white or yellow gold, and use a wide variety of semiprecious stones, including blue topaz, iolite, amethyst, citrine, tourmaline, peridot, and garnet.  Have fun with it!  

The heart necklace is a classic for a reason.  This sparkly diamond heart pendant is fixed on a white gold cable chain and can be worn with jeans and a tank top while running errands or with a little black dress for a night out.  Think of it as a grown-up version of the Mother's Day cards covered in hearts that you used to make with construction paper and crayons when you were a kid. 

Check out our website for more ways to say "Thanks, Mom.  I love you."  Happy Mother's Day from all of us here at Harry Merrill!

Did you know? "The driving force behind Mother's Day was Anna Jarvis, who organized observances in Grafton, W.Va., and Philadelphia on May 10, 1908. As the annual celebration became popular around the country, Jarvis asked members of Congress to set aside a day to honor mothers. She finally succeeded in 1914, when Congress designated the second Sunday in May as Mother's Day." (www.census.gov).

April's Birthstone is Diamond. How much do you know?

Sure, everyone sees diamonds in engagement rings and on red carpets, but there are lots of fun facts about diamonds that I bet you never knew.  For example:

- In Greek mythology, diamonds were tears of the gods; in Roman mythology, diamonds were splinters from the stars that Eros (the god of love) had made into tips for his arrows.

- The word 'carat' comes from the carob tree whose seed was used for centuries as the standard for weighing precious stones.

- Diamonds are the only gemstones composed of just one chemical element, carbon. Although crystal-clear, it is black when reduced to dust.

- The first recorded diamond engagement ring was given to Mary of Burgundy from Archduke Maximillian of Austria in 1477 as a betrothal gift.

- The largest diamond ever found was the Cullinan at 3,106 carats. Known also as the Star of Africa, it adorns the scepter of King Edward VII of England. The Tower of London is its current home.

(Thanks to the Antwerp Tourist Guide for the info!)

Ask Nikki!

Now that our blog is up and active we are going to start filling it with great content and lots of cool info.  We are starting off with "Ask Nikki!" a Q & A blog post where you can ask question on any jewelry topic including: proposal ideas, jewelry insurance questions, or simply to share a funny story about your proposal, wedding or honeymoon.  Please share and please ask.  Thanks and have a great weekend.

Nikki

Welcome!

Thank you for visiting our new blog!  Check back often to see what's new at Harry Merrill & Son, Inc.  We look forward to sharing news, tips, pictures, and information with you.